October 11, 2026
Zambia Field Journal - Day 3
Author

Wow! Day 3 was a bit of a doozy! I have a ton of photos to still go through even though I feel like I've been at it for a while. The truth is I'm pretty exhausted because I got maybe and hour of sleep last night......maybe. Due to a logistical issue, the usual trip leader /guide room was not available for the first night (last night) so I was put into a room that can best be described as a bit scary. I don't need the usual comforts per say, but this room was quite old and had not been used in quite some time and had many holes in the netting and basically anything the size of a tarantula or smaller could get in. The staff did their very best to have it nice and clean for me but there was nothing they could do to fix the many gaping holes. So......I had many many visitors of the arachnid kind. Those of you who know me, know that I am absolutely terrified of spiders. Yes, yes....I'm told they are all harmless but I don't care how harmless they are to normal people, they terrify me to my very core. I asked for an extra can of Doom Insecticide spray and I tried to spray around the edges just to encourage them to stay out but other than inhale lots of insecticide, I don't think it did much good. Every so often I'd spot yet another intruder and have to go spray vast amounts of Doom on them. I tried as best as I could to sit in the bed, mosquito netting tightly wrapped around and work on photos but at around 1:30 in the morning, I had to go to the bathroom. Armed with my 2 cans of Doom I carefully entered and while sitting on the toilet, I saw a medium sized spider in the corner by the sink and then a very big and very fast spider on the back of the door. Mind you, this bathroom is tiny. Panic set in as I quickly went through the options in my head. The one in the corner was the first to receive a large quantity of Doom. Then my attention shifted to the much larger spider on the door. The way the door hung, it stayed in the middle and basically cut off my escape route. Surely the bigger spider had already seen what was happening and was now ready for a full out battle with me and no, he was not more afraid of me than I was of him. He clearly had the upper hand. I took one deep breath and unloaded the Doom on him but he was so big and fast, he was able to escape to the other side of the door. Now, not only am I stuck in the bathroom but I don't know where he is. He might be on the other side of the door or he might have just went up onto the ceiling of the room. I had no idea. Now my heart and my head are both pounding and my Doom is running low. So the only option left was to lay down a cover of Doom like soldiers do while trying to advance in the field of battle and run through it. So with both cans in hand, I let the Doom rip on either side as I ran past the door and into the room. There might have been some screaming, I'm not sure. After safely crossing back into the room, a full visual inspection was conducted but of course the room is quite dark and the spider blends in well. I could not find him. By this point, it was well past 2 am and my alarm was set for 4:40 am. I got back into the relative safety of my mosquito net covered bed but sleep evaded me. Somewhere, a very angry large spider was no doubt watching and waiting. I sat and read the news for a while hoping that my exhaustion would finally allow me to fall asleep. Eventually it did. I'm not sure what time that was but it seemed like the alarm went off a few minutes later although I'm pretty sure it was longer than that.
Happily, today everything was straightened out and I'm in the regular trip leader/guide room which is quite nice and much more insulated from everything that wants to kill me. I got new bottles of Doom just in case and feel at this point that I am single handedly supporting the profits of this company.
But back to today. The morning started with a brilliant sunrise, like a ball of flame rising out of the horizon. After a quick stop to photograph it, we proceeded to try to find the leopard lovebirds from the evening before but they had moved somewhere else. We found a bachelor herd of buffalo which was super cool and although none of them were the old massive ones, a couple were quite cooperative and photogenic. Then we passed by another vehicle that reported that they had seen 2 female wild dogs running through the area just minutes ago and the chase was on. Wild dogs are super energetic and move fast and unpredictably. We drove around looking for them until a short while later, we finally found them in a dry river bed next to some remaining water. They clearly had killed and eaten something recently, probably an impala judging from their bloody faces and now they were quite fat, thirsty and tired. We watched them for quite some time and although the area they were in was not very nice photographically, they did eventually go up from the dry river bed into a nicer open area where we were able to grab some photos before they went to sleep. We also had an opportunity to get out of the vehicle and photograph hippos in the water and eye level. There are so many hippos here. It's a hippo paradise. Later we found a lone leopardess who is 13 and pregnant and absolutely stunning. Our guide very skillfully drove us down to the area where she was so that we could be more eye level. While watching her, we got news that the mating pair of leopards that we saw the other day were spotted so off we went to locate them and we did during beautiful golden hour. I have scanned through those photos and I'm ecstatic with what I and my guests were able to capture. As was the case from the previous night, they were quite busy with their mating ritual and gave us many great looks. We also got to watch quite a large herd of elephants making their way across the river and two young hippos playing and chasing each other around which was just the sweetest thing to watch. Driving back tonight brought more fun sightings of elephant shrews, genets, and the very elusive white tailed mongoose which I was personally very excited about. We even made time today for some birding, catching 3 White Fronted Bee Eaters hanging out all together.
Tomorrow, we are wheels up at 5:15 am to go to the Carmine Bee Eater hide. This is a highlight in this area during the fall months as thousands of these beautiful birds fill the cliffside. It's quite the spectacle and I'm really excited for us to watch this.
I will have more photos in future versions of my field journal and now it's off to try to catch a couple hours of shut eye.
Thank you for following along and I hope everyone has a fantastic rest of their weekend.




